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Living in wild, remote areas throws up questions of survival and sustainability. The choices one makes are limited to what is available at a particular point in time. More importantly in terms of cuisine, the sensibility of eating the right food at the right time is driven largely by the seasons. In Coorg, the long…
In Coorg, legend has it that when an irate Kaveri left her husband the sage Agasthya, the Kodavas implored her to stay. She was adamant on leaving but promised to be with them always in the form of a river, nourishing their land and giving them sustenance. When she left the force of her current…
Centuries ago, a Kodava bridegroom had to walk long distances from his okka (patrilineal clan home) through dense forests, to the house of his bride and back. The trip was fraught with danger. Being attacked by wildlife and rivals was common. The bridegroom as well as the males in his party had to be well…
When Evolve Back Resorts asked me to help them set up the Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum at the resort in Chikkana Halli Estate, Coorg, I didn’t know I would be embarking on such an interesting journey, full of fascinating discoveries. We decided that the museum would have sections on various related topics. The story…
Traditionally Coorg is known to produce spices like cardamom and pepper. The local cuisine is prominently influenced by what they grow. The uniqueness in the cuisine comes from the ingredients readily available that are mostly discovered in most Kodava homes. Coorg cuisine uses coconut as a base for most of its curries, except for pandi curry…
According to the Hindu calendar, Kakkada is the period from mid-July to mid-August. On the 18th day of this month in Coorg, the colour purple takes on a whole different hue. Falling approximately on the 2nd or 3rd of August each year, this is the day when the locals pick the leaves of a plant…
Chikka Veerarajendra, the last king of Coorg (Kodagu), was 34-years-old when he was evicted from the throne by the East India Company. He was ignominiously exiled first to Vellore, and then permanently at Benares. On 24 April 1834, the Raja along with his thirteen wives, and an entourage of other women and servants, exited Madikeri…
In my previous article I discussed the seasonal nature of Kodava cuisine. Kodavas also have certain dishes that are connected to particular festivals. Mid august or September, is the calling of the huntsmen. They would put away all their agricultural tools and bring out their guns and weapons of their clan, which was cleaned and…
On a grey, rainy monsoon day in Madikeri, I step into our family jeweller’s store. I see a lavish display of elaborately worked Kodava jewellery in gold and silver. My mind buzzes with questions about the possible origins and design influences. The kadagas (bangles), necklaces (kokkethathi, pathak, joomale and paunch) and the peechai kathi (the ceremonial…
Kodava cuisine is very dependent on seasonal produce as the region was inaccessible for many centuries. This resulted in a cuisine very unique compared to its neighbours. Foraging was the way of life for the locals. Now, Coorg is easily accessible and has become a tourist destination. Coorg has all year round produce from its…