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Chikka Veerarajendra, the last king of Coorg (Kodagu), was 34-years-old when he was evicted from the throne by the East India Company. He was ignominiously exiled first to Vellore, and then permanently at Benares. On 24 April 1834, the Raja along with his thirteen wives, and an entourage of other women and servants, exited Madikeri…
In my previous article I discussed the seasonal nature of Kodava cuisine. Kodavas also have certain dishes that are connected to particular festivals. Mid august or September, is the calling of the huntsmen. They would put away all their agricultural tools and bring out their guns and weapons of their clan, which was cleaned and…
On a grey, rainy monsoon day in Madikeri, I step into our family jeweller’s store. I see a lavish display of elaborately worked Kodava jewellery in gold and silver. My mind buzzes with questions about the possible origins and design influences. The kadagas (bangles), necklaces (kokkethathi, pathak, joomale and paunch) and the peechai kathi (the ceremonial…
Kodava cuisine is very dependent on seasonal produce as the region was inaccessible for many centuries. This resulted in a cuisine very unique compared to its neighbours. Foraging was the way of life for the locals. Now, Coorg is easily accessible and has become a tourist destination. Coorg has all year round produce from its…
The very mention of Coorg, conjures up images of lush green driveways, sweet aroma of seasonal coffee beans, emerald green paddy fields, pepper harvests in bounteous plantations, nifty homestays and luxury resorts. No wonder Coorg was a prized possession during the British era in India – after all, it isn’t called ‘Scotland of India’ for…
The Nadkerianda Ainmane in Karada, Coorg is a magnificent specimen of a mund mane or house with an inner courtyard. Typically, most Ainmanes face east, unless there is a shrine nearby, in which case the entrance faces the shrine. Like most traditional houses, Ainmanes have a host of interesting architectural details, where form follows function….
Looming grey clouds on the horizon and a patchwork of tilled fields, soon to be transplanted with paddy, accompany me as I make my way to the Nadkerianda Ainmane (clan house), in Karada, Kodagu. Ainmanes are the traditional homes belonging to a particular Kodava okka (clan or family), situated on the jamma (ancestral) land of…
Lingarajendra, the penultimate Raja of Coorg, secured the throne for himself after cleverly ousting his minor niece Devammaji in 1811. Dodda Veerarajendra had named his daughter Devammaji to succeed him and had requested the East India Company to execute his Will. But Lingarajendra manipulated the British with his machinations. He soon named his 9-year-old son,…
A strategic friendship treaty was signed between Dodda Veerarajendra and the British East India Company in 1790. This was primarily to jointly fight their common enemy: Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Coorg thus became a quasi-protectorate of the British. As a token of tribute, two elephants were presented annually by the Rajas of Coorg to the…
Once you explore the nearby places in Madikeri for a day’s excursion, as noted in my previous article ( Photographer’s Guide ) it’s time to explore other areas that are sure to thrill you. Let’s look into some photogenic and must-visit places in Coorg for a serious photographer. Mandalpatti (famously known as Mugilpete) Coorg’s best-kept…