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On the outset, the wild, wet flora of the Western Ghats that oppressively surrounds the visual senses is an unending canvas of green monotone. The only aspect of the forest that breaks the monotony is the spectrum of strange sounds it emanates. You hear bird songs, drones of insects and startlingly eerie whistles whose source…
Living in wild, remote areas throws up questions of survival and sustainability. The choices one makes are limited to what is available at a particular point in time. More importantly in terms of cuisine, the sensibility of eating the right food at the right time is driven largely by the seasons. In Coorg, the long…
Chikka Veerarajendra, the last king of Coorg (Kodagu), was 34-years-old when he was evicted from the throne by the East India Company. He was ignominiously exiled first to Vellore, and then permanently at Benares. On 24 April 1834, the Raja along with his thirteen wives, and an entourage of other women and servants, exited Madikeri…
In my previous article I discussed the seasonal nature of Kodava cuisine. Kodavas also have certain dishes that are connected to particular festivals. Mid august or September, is the calling of the huntsmen. They would put away all their agricultural tools and bring out their guns and weapons of their clan, which was cleaned and…
On a grey, rainy monsoon day in Madikeri, I step into our family jeweller’s store. I see a lavish display of elaborately worked Kodava jewellery in gold and silver. My mind buzzes with questions about the possible origins and design influences. The kadagas (bangles), necklaces (kokkethathi, pathak, joomale and paunch) and the peechai kathi (the ceremonial…
Kodava cuisine is very dependent on seasonal produce as the region was inaccessible for many centuries. This resulted in a cuisine very unique compared to its neighbours. Foraging was the way of life for the locals. Now, Coorg is easily accessible and has become a tourist destination. Coorg has all year round produce from its…
The very mention of Coorg, conjures up images of lush green driveways, sweet aroma of seasonal coffee beans, emerald green paddy fields, pepper harvests in bounteous plantations, nifty homestays and luxury resorts. No wonder Coorg was a prized possession during the British era in India – after all, it isn’t called ‘Scotland of India’ for…
A strategic friendship treaty was signed between Dodda Veerarajendra and the British East India Company in 1790. This was primarily to jointly fight their common enemy: Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Coorg thus became a quasi-protectorate of the British. As a token of tribute, two elephants were presented annually by the Rajas of Coorg to the…
Once you explore the nearby places in Madikeri for a day’s excursion, as noted in my previous article ( Photographer’s Guide ) it’s time to explore other areas that are sure to thrill you. Let’s look into some photogenic and must-visit places in Coorg for a serious photographer. Mandalpatti (famously known as Mugilpete) Coorg’s best-kept…
One evening while walking through the coffee plantation at Evolve Back, Coorg I came across something unusual – civet droppings with undigested coffee beans! Kopi Luwak in Evolve Back, Coorg! While coffee aficionados the world over are familiar with the world’s most exotic and expensive coffee – Kopi Luwak also known as Civet Coffee –…