A Symphony of Flavours | Evolve Back Coorg

‘The Coffee County,' Coorg or the Kodagu region holds pride of place in having a unique and distinctive cuisine. Influenced by the topography, history and culture, food is an integral part of the native Kodavas for whom 'Kadi' ie fondness for good food and 'Kudi' ie liquor, goes well in symphony. ‘Kadi Kudi’ and their music – ‘Aat’ ie Dance and ‘Paat’ ie Song, completes their dynamic identity.

Blessed with lush landscapes defined by wild forests, enriched with yams, wild pigs, boars, fowl, bamboo and other flora, the locals’ eating habits have been solely dictated by their own produce. And that is how their cuisine evolved, celebrating fresh and local ingredients.

For example, ‘Kachampuli’, which is a prominent feature in Kodava cuisine, is the local version of balsamic vinegar which is extracted from the Kudampuli fruit, bamboo shoots, pork and wild boar.

Originally, the locals of Coorg were into farming with agriculture as their main occupation, engaged primarily in paddy cultivation. Hence, rice forms a major part of Coorg cuisine. ‘Sannakki’ , the fragrant rice is their favourite and they have a variety of rice preparations, from the rich ‘Nei Kool’ - ghee rice garnished with raisins and nuts to the more elaborate and spicy vegetable, chicken and mutton pulav.

Let’s take a look at the prominent authentic dishes of Coorg cuisine, today mostly found and relished in their homes.

‘Akki Otti’ ie chapatti made with rice, is the staple breakfast accompanied by 'koot curry' ie mixed vegetables in a coconut paste and vegetable stir fry called 'palya.' Puttu in various forms is also a much loved breakfast dish. There are Kadamputtu in ball shape, ‘Thaliya Puttu’ - the flat steamed ones, ‘Paaputtu’ - cooked with milk and grated coconut, ‘Nooputtu’ - noodle like with a mould and so on.

On a daily basis, lunch and dinner are simple meals of steamed rice with vegetable curries and stir-fried vegetables. Fortunately seasonal produce was rich and plenty and that governed which fresh ingredients to consume. In winters, one could find the kitchens of Coorg well stocked with ingredients that could provide warmth hence bamboo, wild mushrooms, mud crabs, and a range of chutneys were sorted. During the summer months, wild mango curries, jackfruits, and wild fruits were relished. Even jams, pickles and chutneys were unique delicious and their availability kept on rotating as per the season. Coconut was not the only base but they prepared chutney from gingelly seeds, horse gram and jack fruit seeds as well.

‘Kadambattu’ is a popular dish of Kodavus. These are steamed rice balls, prepared from ground rice, cardamom and coconut and is best served with pickle and pandi curry. ‘Pandi Curry’, the most prominent of Kodava cuisine, known as ‘Coorgi pork curry’, is a special preparation. Locals infuse it with a unique flavor by marinating the pork in Kachumpuli, and spice the meat with fenugreek seeds, cumin, turmeric, red chilli powder and curry leaves. ‘Koli Curry’ is the spicy one prepared with chicken, cumin, red chilli powder, cloves and cinnamon and is best paired with Akki roti. Then there is ‘Baimbalé Curry’, prepared with soft bamboo shoots, curry leaves, red chillies and coconut. It is quite a task to prepare it as the bamboo needs to be soaked in water for 72 hours before actually beginning to cook it. A breakfast staple, ‘Noolputtu’, also known as nuuputtu or idiyappam, are rice noodle cakes, prepared with steamed rice pressed into thin noodle-shaped strands which are then formed into little cakes.

How about a street food favourite – ‘Kuleputtu’? Prepared from ripe jackfruits that are mixed with rice, jaggery, salt and cardamom, these are served in banana leaves.

A must have dish is ‘Kootu Curry’. Boasting with fresh roasted spices, this tongue tickling vegetable stew is one-pot dish loaded with mustard, cumin, coriander seeds, dry red chillies, fresh coconut and tamarind.

The locals go out of the way to prepare food which is several notches higher during special occasions, festivals and celebrations to include peppy spicy meat dishes, subtly flavored rice dishes, vegetables, and sweets.

‘Akkit Tary Payasa’ is one such wedding and festival favourite among the Coorgis. Prepared from rava, milk, coconut paste, jaggery and cardamom, this creamy dessert is served garnished with dry fruits.

‘Baale Nuruk’ is a popular snack, prepared from bananas, jaggery, coconut, cardamom powder, sesame seeds and rice flour. Best relished with steaming hot strong cup of local coffee.

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Coorg house-wives are adept at making delicious jams, jellies, marmalades and juices. Juices of Nellikai, Kaipuli, and Passion fruit are their particular favourites for preparation. They are also good at guarding their secret recipes for preparing sweet wines from a variety of local fruits, such as orange, orange peel, gooseberry, sapota, grape, plum, peach as well as from paddy. There has been a mention of a unique named wine called ‘OT Wine’. Can you believe it stands for “Other Things” meaning let your imagination run wild to know that this wine includes spices, even chillies besides the usual ingredients. So much for the expert cooks that Kodavu women are, really! If you are fortunate to be invited to a Coorg home, festival or wedding, you will see how they excel in their hospitality and delicious food. Traditionally, before guests start to eat a formal meal, the host asks all those at the table “Ellaarku Ethichaa?” (Has everyone been served?) . And when you have finished your meal, do not leave the table until the host asks “Kai Bai Othathaa? ” (Have your hands and mouths agreed that they are content?)

Who will you not say a big “Yes” with such a delicious spread out at the unique Kodava Table?

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