Dholes: Whistling Hunters of Kabini | Evolve Back Resorts

The boat rocked dangerously as most of us rushed to lean on the side nearest to the river bank. Our Naturalist whispered clearly, “At eight o'clock position on your right.” A few of the senior citizens on board were puzzled by the instruction and fumbled when the rest raised their binoculars for a better view. “Please look to your right sir, there behind the old stump, can you see the group of vultures feeding?”, said our Naturalist to the senior guest. He promptly looked through his pair of Nikon binoculars and smiled, greatly satisfied. It was time for breakfast for the vultures but a few feet away from them we saw the much sought after Indian wild dogs. Bushy reddish-brown tails, slender build, spring in the run, long snout and rusty ears . . . beautiful beings, if you ask me! Their apparent innocence disguises their speed, agility and raw fierceness. The true potential and power of the Indian wild dog rests in its ability to hunt as a pack. While the kill had been made by the dogs the group had had its share and now it was the turn of the vultures to finish it off. We were asked to return to our seats so that the boat could maintain its equilibrium. As we sat watching in silence, the Dhole duo stood guard around what in truth was theirs. The vultures however pretended to not notice the dogs and huddled, like a rugby team,to protect the meal. The motley crew even had a king vulture apart from the residents. The giant birds feasted leisurely, sinew by sinew, bone by bone. It was probably our best sighting since we arrived in Kabini 2 days ago. While vehicle safari takes one into the heart of the forest, and fills the senses with native fragrances, the morning boat safari offers moody silhouettes and peerless sightings of wildlife … in the river, on the branches and even on the banks!

It was a first for me and I wondered why the Dhole are not as commonly seen as the Golden jackal around the outskirts. It’s interesting to note that statistics say the Dhole used to occupy 62% of the Western Ghats in 2007 but dropped to a humble 54% by 2015. Today there are only about 2500 of them left in the wild but they continue to be one of the least studied large carnivores in the world.

Our Naturalist read my mind and began telling us about how the government of Karnataka and the Forest Departments across Kerala, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu have worked relentlessly to bring back the Dhole from the brink of extinction. The scene in front of us grew even more tense as the Dhole duo approached the vultures from behind, on stealth mode. One of the birds, probably an older member, took notice and swiftly spread its wings to the fullest while perching on the stump. Another vulture, who had been sitting solo all morning, sprang into action. The bird hopped over and chased the Dhole on foot! It was a scene indeed! Our Naturalist continued in a hushed voice while we watched intently. “The Forest officials are no less than heroes. Many of these (wild dogs) are killed by humans when they stray into villages. But there are other forces that are bringing their numbers down. The government has battled the effects of forest loss, high livestock grazing in certain protected areas by increasing conservation resources and reducing the impact of development projects.”

Just as he was about to finish the whole pack emerged from the shadows of the Kabini forest. All 5 of them, pups included. I thought I heard one of them whistle or at best let out a sharp call. The lot spread out in all directions while the vultures huddled closer; to hatch a plan perhaps? The sun was high above us now and there were only twenty minutes to return to the jetty. The boatman started the engine and we steered off, rather reluctantly. My eyes were locked on the dogs, still. I turned around in my seat and glued the binoculars to my sockets as the birds continued to guard their meal from the now crowding Dhole. What a gameplay, I thought to myself. In the background I could hear our Naturalist informing the guests about how the Dhole has made a successful comeback in recent years. Conservation scientists have documented the presence of Indian wild dogs in the reserve forests of Kalaburagi and Bidar and adjoining areas. They’re growing, adapting and moving from place to place! This sounds heartening, I thought and smiled to myself. “Do they make good pets?” I asked and our Naturalist stared blankly back at me.

Continue your booking