Ugra Narasimha - the protector of Hampi | Evolve Back Hampi

History is written by the victors, they say. But every boulder and every ruin here speaks for those who were silenced in time. Hampi’s iconic Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple testifies to that. Commissioned by the mighty Krishnadevaraya in 1528 CE the monolithic structure was believed to be the protector and pride of the Vijayanagara capital.

We had been exploring and photographing the ruins, southwards from the river, since morning. My fellow adventurer and I spent a good many hours in the sun, debating and tracing the geological, historical and cultural origins of the land that is today known as Hampi. As we took strained steps towards the Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple the sheer size of it made me stop in my tracks.

The Tuluva kings were ardent followers of the Narasimha sect and did much to expand its influence during their reign. At 6.7 metres the Narasimha idol is probably the most impressive and imposing of them all. Guarded by demigods and seated on Adishesha, as well as being hooded by him, the image of Narasimha in Hampi had been conceived rather differently. The Lakshmi Narasimha idol was originally a masterpiece with the Devi seated on the lap of the Lord. Destroyed later by armies of the Sultanate, the statue of Lord Narasimha’s consort is now missing. Such was the attention to detail and mastery of the artists that each tooth of the lower jaw and the gums with protruding canines are still intact and clearly visible. The thick mane, bulging eyeballs, facial lines and even the flared nostrils had been carved with superior precision. It’s almost alive!

A sharp wind blew dust in our faces as we stood looking at the roofless temple compound wondering why the statue had been mutilated while the Badavalinga and the Ganesha statue just outside were left untouched. When the alliance of the Deccan Sultanates sacked the city in 1565 CE most of the prominent temples and idols in and Hampi were brought to harm. The intention was indeed to brutally attack the influence and prestige of the ruling kings, not so much the idols themselves. Today only a remainder of the Devi’s hand rests on the shoulder of the Lord, proof that the present Ugra Narasimha (the fierce one) was once Malola Narasimha (beloved of Lakshmi). The knees of the idol were also damaged and have been restored recently in the 1980s. Held in place by a slab or the yoga patta the colossal creation still stands tall even today, as an emblem of the Vijayanagara prowess.

The Vaishnavites and Shaivites had both influenced the ethno-cultural backbone of this land. As my eyes wandered to the Shree Badavilinga Gudi next door to the Shree Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, I couldn’t help but wonder about the times when both cults co-existed in harmony here. Many other temples in the complex amplify this sentiment.

The Virupaksheshwara or Pampapathi Temple is the most well preserved and maintained one in all of the ancient town of Hampi. The UNESCO site houses many structures that date back to the 9th century and confirm the prevalence of the Shaiva cult prior to the Vijayanagara influence.

Legend has it Devi Pampa (a form of Devi Parvathi) in order to attain Lord Virupaksha (a form of Lord Shiva) had performed severe penance near a pond which later came to be known as Pampa Sarovar. The river Tungabhadra is also mentioned as Pampa in ancient scriptures. These have been referred to in different Kannada versions of the Ramayana. The land around therefore came to be known as Pampakshetra and later Kishkindha. In fact some believe that the town borrows from Her name; from Pampa to Hampa and finally corrupted to Hampi.

The religious sect of Virupaksha-Pampa survived the annihilation of the city in 1565 CE. With major restoration efforts being made only as late as the 19th century many of the structures and their secrets are still lying undiscovered.

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