Heritage in motion: Anegundi’s Sri Ranganathaswamy Rathotsav | Evolve Back Hampi

Our feet hurt a little from the long hours of temple touring with the Evolve Back Hampiteam all morning. The slow sultry air felt even heavier now at midday. But a quiet moment quickly transformed into something rather electric! My fellow adventurers and I had set out to explore some offbeat architectural trails, but we had unknowingly timed our visit with the vibrant and deeply immersive Sri Ranganatha Swamy Rathotsav—and suddenly, we were no longer just observers, but were part of a “living legacy” of the Vijaynagara empire.

Drummers, dancers, conch players, bells swinging wildly in the background and the breeze picking up the rhythm - oh what a scene! Anegundi’sRathotsav is a vibrant temple chariot festival dedicated to Lord Ranganatha. Celebrated with great fervour, the festival marks the ceremonial procession of the deity’s idol through the village on a grand wooden chariot, symbolising the Lord’s presence among His devotees. It was plain to see how the gathering brought together locals, pilgrims, and travellers in a shared expression of devotion.

One of the most striking sights was the group of devotees dressed in elaborate “animal skin” costumes, their bodies painted and adorned in a way that blurred the line between ritual and theatre. Their presence felt primal, almost ancient, as though echoing traditions far older than the village itself. Behind them trailed sadhus and yogis, draped in vivid saffron robes that seemed to glow under the morning sun. Their calm, almost detached demeanor contrasted beautifully with the pulsating energy of the procession, adding a spiritual depth to the entire experience.

The Rathotsav has mythical roots in the Vaishnavite tradition and is believed to commemorate the divine presence of Lord Ranganatha in this ancient region, often associated with episodes from the Ramayana. As we moved along the village path, tailing the procession, my mind wandered to the ancient 14th century temple built by the Vijayanagara kings on the other side of the Tungabhadra.

Another Local legend holds that Anegundi, identified by many as the epic Kishkindha, was sanctified by Lord Rama during his search for Sita, making it a spiritually charged landscape. This is where geography, mythology and cultural history converge. The rugged terrain around Anegundi strewn with massive granite boulders, hillocks, and dense patches of forest closely matches the scriptural descriptions of a wild, vanar rajya. A short drive from the town leads to the Anjanadri Hill which is revered as the birthplace of Hanuman, strengthening the belief that this region was once home to the Vanara kingdom ruled by Sugriva.

Other nearby sites like the Rishyamukha Hill and the sacred Pampa Sarovar are intricately tied to episodes from the Ramayana. According to tradition, it was in these caves that Lord Rama first encountered the Vanaras, including Hanuman, who would eventually become His greatest ally. The continuity of worship, names of places, and oral lore over centuries reinforces the belief that Anegundi is not merely symbolically, but geographically, the Kishkindha of the Ramayana.

We found local performers recreating episodes from the legends as part of their ceremonial celebrations. What an irony when we spotted a family of langur on thatched rooftops, enjoying the part where the vanarsena builds the bridge to Lanka! The skit was simple, almost rustic in its execution, yet profoundly captivating. Without elaborate sets or modern theatrics, the performers managed to hold the audience spellbound. There was laughter, there was reverence, and above all, there was a shared sense of belonging. Even as outsiders, we felt welcomed into this collective narrative, as though the stories being told belonged to all of us.

Eventually, we peeled away from the procession, though its echoes followed us through the village. Our path led us past a series of lesser-known temples—quiet, weathered structures that seemed to exist outside the rush of time. Each one held its own story, its own aura, and together they painted a picture of Anegundi as a place where history and spirituality are inseparably intertwined.

As we continued to wander through the narrow lanes of the village, the booming drums and bells faded in the distance. The humble houses, shy smiles of the children playing, sooty lamps outside secret temples, saffron-draped holy trees and the broken path - all became part of a sacred tapestry of this forgotten landscape.

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