Where Giants Linger in Shadows
Published on: 10/04/2025
Photo title: Gaur
|Photo Credits: Gowri Subramanya
There is a peculiar sight I have grown accustomed to in the southern Indian forests. Every time I spot a gaur standing near a highway tunnelling through a protected reserve, it reacts in the most puzzling way—it hides its face in the nearest shrub, with the rest of its enormous body standing quite still, out in the open nevertheless. This massive creature, the largest wild bovine in the world, simply tucks its head behind scarce foliage as if believing that if it cannot see us, we cannot see it.
It reminds me of the myth about ostriches burying their heads in the sand. The notion seems absurd, but in the case of gaur, I think I can make sense of it. Most of their natural predators—tigers and leopards—have limited colour vision, relying more on movement and contrast than on finer details. A still, dark mass partially obscured by foliage is often enough to blend into the surroundings. But to primates like us, with our more colour sensitivity, the camouflage is ineffective. We see them despite their attempts at invisibility.
Deconstructing this behaviour is not as interesting as a parallel inference of their nature. A shy, unassuming, and largely non-confrontational animal, a contrast to another rare wild relative, the water buffalo.
Unlike the water buffalo, which is known for its temper, gaur seems like a creature of quiet. They do not pick fights unnecessarily. Their size alone commands awe, and in the rare instances where they must assert dominance, they do it with minimal aggression, which plays out something like this: the rivals assess each other, possibly from the corner of their eye and the bigger one wins. The smaller one bows out respectfully.
Photo title: Gaur
|Photo Credits: Gowri Subramanya
During safaris in Kabini, I have often observed them standing at the forest’s edge, partially concealed by bamboo and undergrowth, watching. They are wary but not fearful, strong yet gentle in their presence. When they move, it is with deliberate grace, their dark forms slipping into the shadows of the trees, disappearing as suddenly as they appeared-- males, with their massive humps, more reclusive than females with herds.
Their social structure is equally subdued. While they move in herds, they lack the chaotic energy of buffalo gatherings. There is an unspoken order among them, a silent agreement of coexistence rather than a constant jostling for dominance.
This preference for remaining unseen makes them surprisingly difficult to spot in the wild, even in protected areas. They seem to favour the dappled light of the forest, blending into the undergrowth. When they do appear in clearings, it is usually in the cooler hours of dawn and dusk, moving with a quiet caution.
For me, the joy of watching Gaur lies in their understated elegance. They do not demand attention like a tiger, nor do they entertain with antics like a troop of langurs. They are simply there—gentle giants navigating the forest, their presence more felt than announced.
And so, every time I see one peering out from behind a veil of leaves, I cannot help but smile. Perhaps, in that moment, they believe they are hidden. Perhaps, to them, the world is a little safer that way.
But to us, with our relentless curiosity, they are forever a quiet wonder of the wild.
Gowri Subramanya
Gowri Subramanya is an editor and learning consultant based in Bengaluru, India. Writing and photography are her chosen tools of creative expression and the wilderness is her muse. A keen observer of the interaction between nature and culture, she loves to explore the history as well as the natural history of new places during her travels. With a soft spot for bird songs and a weakness for flowers, she indulges in a healthy dose of tree gazing every morning.
The Tiger of the Skies: An encounter with the Peregrine Falcon
Butterfly Safari in the Western Ghats: a possibility? - Part 2
A Photographer’s Guide to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve - Light, dust, dramatic skies and the art of capturing desert wildlife
Butterfly Safari in the Western Ghats: a possibility?
Desert Bones and Dust Trails: Reading the Kalahari’s Ancient Ground
Life in the Sands: The Surprising Riches of the Kalahari
Peek into Coorg’s Culture at Madikeri’s Government Museum
The Kalahari in Miniature: What You Miss When You Only Look for Big Game
Anegundi’s quiet empire of women: the banana-fibre story
Little Feet, Ancient Rhythms: Young Keepers of the Kodava Culture
Water, Wildlife, and the Art of Waiting in the Kalahari
Tracking Wildlife: What the Sand Tells You in the Kalahari
Singing of confluences, tangible and intangible
Strange Encounters: What We See and What We Miss
Water, Stone, and Empire: Reading Vijayanagara in the Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace
The Unusual Suspects: Creatures You Didn’t Expect in the Kalahari
The Ultimate Family Safari: Multigenerational Travel in Africa Creates Unforgettable Bonds
Locking Horns: An Afternoon with the Other King
The Arboreal By-lanes of Coorg: A Street Photographer's Foray into Bird Photography
Lone Warrior: An Encounter with the Grey-headed Fish Eagle
Under the Kalahari Sky: A Journey Through Africa’s Night Sky
Reptilian Sibilances, Mollusc Stillnesses, Fern Rustlings
Sri Purandara Mantapa: A hall that echoes the raagas of devotion
Cultural Extravaganza: Kodava Music & Dance Forms
The Kalahari Skies: An Everchanging Canvas of Colour
The San People of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve: Guardians of an Ancient Culture
Anegundi: ‘Monkey Business’ in the ‘Elephant Pit’
African Wild Dogs - one of Africa's most captivating carnivores and most endangered species
Discovering the Brown Hyenas of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve
An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Sound of Life
Five Wildlife Sightings You Can Expect Without Going on Safari
Into the Valley of Deception: The Central Kalahari Game Reserve
The Cup That Cheers: The Changing Taste of Coffee
Craft Calling: Traditional Lambani Arts and Crafts and the Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra
An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Language of Deception
An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Sound of Tardiness
Taking Terrific Photos on Safari: Getting the Trophy Shot
Adapt and Survive: Reaching the Pinnacle of Specialisation
Into the night – nocturnal life in the Kalahari
An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Seen and the Sawing
Hampi Ruins in the 1900s: Stellar Photographs From A Forgotten Historical Text
Touring Kabini with Your Eyes Closed: An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: Alarms True and False
North Karnataka’s Threesome — Badami, Aihole, & Pattadakallu
Hampi Ruins in the 1900s — The Gateways into the City
A Lone Porcupine fights off an entire pride of Lions!
The cute little denizens of the Kamalapura Palace, Hampi
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Jallad Roti | Akki Roti
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Qubani ka Meetha and Shahjahani ka Meetha
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Murgh-e-Lazeez
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Nizami Machali ka Salan
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Dum ki Nalli
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Anapa Ginjala Pulusu
An Aural Journey through Kabini: Pre-Dawn Critters and Jitters
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Raan-e-Kamalapura
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Baghara Baingan
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Natukodi Pulusu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tondekai Palya
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Royala Igaru
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Koli Chuttada
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Karibelle Cutlet
The Battle of Talikota and the Sacking of Hampi
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kori Ghee Roast
Ten Interesting Facts About the Kalahari Desert
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vazhachundum Thoran
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Mezze Platter
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Grilled Pork Ribs
An Aural Journey through Kabini: The Beginnings
Harihara & Bukka: founders of the Vijayanagara Empire
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pazham Puzhungiyathu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Peppercorn chocolate mousse
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kabsah Laham Bis
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vazhakanda Thoran
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Banana Bajji
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pazham pori
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Joojeh – e – Koobideh
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vegetable Kurma
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pandi Curry
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kerala Fish Curry
Nalknad Palace – off the beaten track in Coorg
Designing the Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum
Why you should put a backwater boat safari at the forefront of your Kabini visit – 2
Why you should put a backwater boat safari at the forefront of your Kabini visit – 1
Chikka Veerarajendra of Coorg and his Thirteen Wives
The Architecture of Ainmanes: Form follows Function
Kodava Ainmanes – the heart of the Kodava Clan
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Sutta Sigadi Mathu Hannugalu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Masala Raagi Cheela
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tandoori Zaffrani Paneer & Tandoori Phool
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tumbida Ginnu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Raagi Mudde Bassaru
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Hurida Meke Mamsa
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Masala Hoo Kosu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kuruba Adina Saru
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Sutta Naati Koli
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Savatekayi Suttadu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kendadali urida sigadi mathu meenu
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Bidirinalli Beyisida Koli
From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Hurida Koli
First glimpse of god – the Black Panther of Kabini
The Battle of Raichur: The Beginning of the End