Once found all over Africa, African Wild Dogs numbers have drastically declined over the last 100 years. Seen as pests by farmers and blamed for livestock deaths (more often than not the work of lions or hyenas) they are regularly shot or poisoned, or they catch distemper and rabies from domestic dogs. African Wild Dogs require huge ranges and habitat fragmentation has also contributed to their decline. Nowadays populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves. Thankfully the African Wild Dog has undergone a very good PR makeover over the last few years and has now become one of the most wished-for safari sightings.

Known by many names, including Cape hunting dogs, painted dogs, painted wolves, and African hunting dogs, the scientific name for the African wild dog is Lycaon pictus, which means “painted wolf.” This name perfectly describes their irregular blotchy tan, black, brown, red, white and yellow spotted coats - each as unique as a fingerprint.

Wild dogs are highly social animals, living in packs led by an alpha male and female. They are highly successful hunters, with a success rate of around 80% (remarkable considering lions only average 30%). Hunting in packs, that number anywhere from five to forty, adult wild dogs unite to become an awesome killing machine, communicating constantly with bird-like chirrups and hoots. They are prodigious athletes, able to outrun almost any creature over long distances. Using stamina to overcome their prey, they can maintain speeds of 50km/hr for extended periods, occasionally reaching top speeds of 70km/hr… effectively running their prey to exhaustion.

Wild dogs work together as a team, coordinating their moves, and this, combined with their relentless running skills, enables them to take down animals over ten times their size, tearing them limb from limb. After the hunt, the pack will usually return to the den, where they regurgitate their kill for pups, as well as old or injured pack members. Unlike other social carnivores, wild dogs have an extraordinary social dynamic and the whole pack will work together to raise a litter of pups, even if that means letting them feed first on a kill.

Wild dogs are, without a doubt, my favourite animals to spot on safari. There's something about their elusiveness, their intelligence, and their intricate social dynamics, that make every sighting special. On a safari in Botswana’s CKGR, I couldn’t help but hope for a glimpse of these elusive creatures.

The CKGRis one of the most remote places on Earth, its sheer expanse humbles you. The raw, untamed wilderness seems to stretch out endlessly, making you feel like you’ve stepped into an ancient world, far from civilization. One particular morning, we left camp just before sunrise. The air was crisp, still carrying the chill of the previous night, and the horizon was just beginning to glow with the sunrise.

We were in an open safari vehicle. Springboks leapt, wildebeest grazed and giraffes undulated across the landscape in their slow, languid way. It was beautiful, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that something extraordinary was on the horizon. And then we spotted large, fresh footprints in the soft sand. Wild Dogs. African wild dogs are among the rarest predators in Africa, and every sighting feels like winning the wildlife lottery.

We followed the tracks. Winding through dry riverbeds, under thorny acacia trees, and over open plains. And then, there they were. A pack of about ten wild dogs, their coats a patchwork of black, white, and tan, blending seamlessly with the golden grasses. They moved with grace and purpose, yet there was an unmistakable playfulness. Their large, rounded ears were on alert, twitching with every sound, while their lithe bodies glided effortlessly across the landscape.

Watching them interact was mesmerizing. Wild dogs are known for their incredibly complex social structure — they hunt together, care for each other’s young, and are deeply loyal to their pack. As we observed them communicating through soft chirps and tail flicks, it felt like we were witnessing a tight-knit family in action. There’s a certain harmony in the way they move and operate as a unit, and it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe in their presence.

The dogs ignored us, their attention fixed on the horizon. But then one of the dogs turned to look directly at us, locking eyes with a gaze that was both curious and calculating. There was no fear, just a quiet confidence, as if assessing whether we posed a threat or if we were just part of the landscape. Moments later, as swiftly as they had appeared, the pack melted back into the bush, their spotted coats vanishing into the dry grasses like shadows.

We sat there, silent, reflecting on what we had just witnessed. Seeing wild dogs in the Central Kalahari is more than just ticking off an item on a bucket list, it’s a deeply humbling experience. It’s hard to put into words how it feels to witness such a rare and remarkable creature in its natural habitat. I couldn’t help but feel grateful that here, in this remote corner of Botswana, for a brief moment, I was lucky enough to be a part of their world.

While a wild dog sighting like this may be memorable, it is uncommon. Nowadays wild dog populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves, and they remain under threat with population numbers continuing to decline. Fortunately, there are people and projects committed to saving this special species. One such person is Margot Raggett, and one such project is the stunning Remembering Wildlife series of photography books.

Margot gave up a career as CEO of a London PR company and went to Africa to follow her love of wildlife photography. In 2014, her path changed again, she was in Kenya and came across the carcass of a poached elephant. So deeply affected by this, Margot was determined to do something about it. She spent months persuading some of the world’s best wildlife photographers to donate photographs she could include in what she planned would be “the most beautiful book on a species ever seen”, the sale of which would raise funds for elephant conservation. The book, Remembering Elephants, was launched in 2016.

At the time, Margot had thought the book would be a one-off. But her vision created a series, with Remembering Elephants being followed by Remembering Rhinos, Remembering Great Apes, Remembering Lions, Remembering Cheetahs, Remembering African Wild Dogs, Remembering Bears, Remembering Leopards – and the soon to be released ninth book in the series, Remembering Tigers. More than 50,000 books have been sold so far, raising $1.5 million for wildlife conservation, with Remembering African Wild Dogs raising over $163,000 specifically for wild dog conservation projects. In 2023 Margot was awarded an MBE in the King’s Birthday Honour’s List for services to international wildlife conservation.

Sarah Kingdom

Travel writer, mountain guide, yoga teacher, trail runner and mother, Sarah Kingdom was born and brought up in Sydney, Australia. Coming to Africa at 21 she fell in love with the continent and stayed. Sarah guides on Kilimanjaro several times a year, and has lost count of how many times she has stood on the roof of Africa. She has climbed and guided around the world and now spends most of her time visiting remote places in Africa. When she is not traveling she runs a cattle ranch in Zambia with her husband.

African Wild Dogs - one of Africa's most captivating carnivores and most endangered species

Sarah Kingdom