Epic Trails of Hampi: Anjanadri Hill | Evolve Back Hampi

Believed to be the mythical Kishkindha, the humble town of Anegundi holds great cultural and historical significance. As we left our gorgeous residence at the Evolve Back Hampi resort, our Historian narrated many local legends and folk stories about the land. On our temple trail the next destination was the iconic Anjanadri Hill, a site steeped in mythology and reverence. Known as the birthplace of Hanuman, the hill has long been a pilgrimage site for devotees of the Ramayana. But beyond its spiritual significance, it also promised a climb—and a view—that we had been eagerly anticipating.

The bouldered and rugged terrain of Hampi along with the more ancient settlement of Anegundi together form one of the most evocative mytho-historical landscapes in India. The humble town is widely believed to be a remnant of the glorious Vanar kingdom of Kishkindha from the epics. Here, mythology is not a remote belief. It is not a “maybe”. From the very fabric of the local customs and practices to the names of places - tell-tale signs make a bridge between fact and fiction. Ask anyone from around here and they will tell you the Ramayana is itihasa (or history) and not a legend. I’m other words Kishkindha lives even today.

We learned from a local that somewhere in these shaded cool caves the Princes of Ayodhya had taken shelter. The earth beneath our feet is therefore sacred. It was here that they first encountered Hanuman and the exiled Vanar king Sugriva. This fated meeting had taken place in the caves of the Anjanadri hill range, which still continues to draw pilgrims and explorers alike.

The ascent was a Herculean task! More than 500 steps stretched out before us, each one marked with blotches of sindoor, as though every step carried a prayer. We started off with gusto but ran out of breath midway. That is when our Historian filled the air with more mystical stories about the birth of Hanuman at this very place. With each step, the noise of the world below seemed to fade, replaced by the rhythm of our own feet and the occasional call of birds echoing across the hills.

I had a feeling we weren’t alone on this climb. As if to prove me right a troop of langur showed up, member by member, appearing and disappearing along the steps at blinding speed. They watched us with curious eyes, sometimes darting ahead, sometimes pausing as if to observe these slothish humans who were unfit for the pilgrimage. Their presence added a wild, almost playful element to the journey.

As we climbed higher, the landscape unfolded piece by piece. In the distance, the Tungabhadra River shimmered under the afternoon sun, winding its way through the rugged terrain like a lifeline. It was easy to understand why this river has been the heart of the region for centuries…sustaining not just life, but entire civilizations.

My mind was lost between thoughts and the vastness of the view when our Historian mentioned, “And finally, we have arrived!”

From that vantage point, the entire expanse of Hampi unfolded before us: a surreal tapestry of rocky outcrops, ancient ruins, and crimson hills stretching endlessly into the horizon. It was at that moment that the memories of the grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire truly came alive. My gaze shifted to the town below that seemed almost like a lost and forgotten kingdom frozen in time.

It was incredible to imagine that we were looking at the city that was once the largest and most prosperous in the world. European and Persian travellers have recorded dedicated trading markets that Hampi had for diamonds, pearls, silks, brocades and other luxury goods. The kingdom was also noted for its opulent palaces, architectural marvels, embassies, stables, aqueducts and even defence check posts!

We soaked in the history for a while, allowing the wind to carry away the fatigue of the climb and replace it with a quiet sense of awe. As we made our way back down, the sounds of the Rathotsav still echoed faintly in the distance. And somehow, everything felt connected . . . the procession, the temples, the climb, the view. Anegundi and Anjanadri had revealed themselves to us not just as sites, but as a wholesome experience: one that stays with you long after you’ve left its dusty paths behind.

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