The Cursed Bird of Kabini | Evolve Back Kabini

To know the land, we must first know its people. This belief drove me to the deeper forests of Karnataka to understand a lesser known and widely feared bird.

The Soliga and Kani tribes are forest dwellers who maintain a deep reverence for the “guardian deities” or “devaru”. Only a few of these have a “seer”. But the Elders in these tribes have read and observed the woods over their lifetime. It is only natural that their interpretation of forest ecology becomes the instruction for the community. Their word is law.

My fellow adventurers and I sought the advice of such a group of elders when we went looking for the majestic yet elusive Spot-bellied Eagle Owl (Ketupa nipalensis). Ketupa is the Latinised version of Ketupok which is the native Malay word for fish owls. British Naturalist and Ethnologist Brian Houghton Hodgson had spent many years in Nepal, studying the flora and fauna around. The first specimen of the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl was collected and studied by Hodgson in Nepal, thereby making the country its “type locality” and making a place for it in the name - nipalensis.

The bird had been assumed to be a true eagle owl for over a century because of its large proportions, ear tufts and affinity to hunt on land. But since the landmark molecular study in 2020 it has been established that the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl and Barred Eagle Owl (Ketupa Sumatrana) are sister species, with a recent common ancestor. And both are forest hunters. Together they form a genetic branch that nests within the core group of Asian fish owls that include the Brown Fish Owl (Ketupa zeylonensis), the Buffy Fish Owl and Tawny Fish Owl.

Over the days and nights we spent hiking through these forests we learned from them how the woods are more than a natural refuge to them - it is a sacred sanctuary watched over by ancestral spirits, they said. A rustle of the leaves, an odd smell, an ominous call - all of it is part of a grand tapestry. It must be mentioned here that the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl and the Brown Fish Owl are deeply revered within their spiritual framework (believed to be physical manifestations of forest spirits). The tribals keep their distance and refrain from hunting these birds. I have often observed and wondered how beautifully our traditional beliefs have contributed to conservation, across generations.

The “Devil Bird” is a forest ghost, primarily because of its eerie, human-like nocturnal calls that emerge from deep within the undisturbed forest. Ask anyone and they will tell you it’s the Kādu Devate or forest spirit calling angrily. Why, you may ask? To express anger and dissent about human encroachment, illegal logging and disruption of boundaries around the Devarakadu (sacred groves). The call is a sign to turn around and leave, immediately. I’m sure a birder will disagree.

Some folklore along the Western Ghats of Karnataka suggest that deep within ancient ruins or close to caves the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl acts as a guardian of hidden treasures. While others down in Sri Lanka believe it is the incarnation of the grieving mother, Ulama. Despite the reverence the bird is hunted vicariously for its feathers, talons and other body parts (that are believed to hold magical powers) by poachers who fuel a “market” run by superstition. For decades several conservation groups have been working with the local communities to debunk these myths and protect the nesting sites.

As we scanned the tree line along the backwaters of Kabini, our minds expected the familiar stocky silhouette of the Brown Fish Owl near the water. The call that we had been yearning for had been finally heard and we traced our steps carefully towards it. But after an hour of searching deep in the woods, we came across a sight we weren’t prepared for. I flashed my torch at a high branch in the distance and the source of the sound shot me a piercing gaze back! About 60 cm in height with ear tufts that slant out and a pale facial disc - that’s him! What an absolutely stunning plumage.

My fellow adventurer grabbed his camera instantly and I reached for my binoculars. The regal bird in front of us donned a dark brown back and a heavily patterned pale belly, with the signature heart-shaped chevron spots. But the feet and talons of this owl truly set it apart. Large and designed to perfection the talons enable the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl to grab fawns, rabbits or hares and mid-sized prey with ease.

After a quick round of observation (and the mandatory photographs) we turned to leave as quietly as we had arrived. On our way back to our resort Evolve Back Kabini, I couldn’t help exchanging notes with the Naturalist. He pointed out that in contrast to the bird we had just spotted, the Brown Fish Owl is smaller, leaner and has bare yellow legs with spiny soles that have evolved to grip slippery aquatic prey. Apart from occupying different grounds, the birds also differ in feathers, flight mechanics and hunting strategies.

I wondered if I should go looking for another fish owl soon, just to be able to draw more comparisons and learn about these misunderstood creatures. They aren’t ominous, nor devlish. On the contrary if you ever find one calling, when you look beyond the obvious trail, pause a while to listen hard - the bird may tell you secrets about where it really comes from!

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