Treks, Trails and Tranquility

Published on: 06/01/2025

Black and white photo of misty mountains.

Photo title: Treks, Trails and Tranquility

|

Photo Credits: Preanka Roy

Untamed winds sweeping
Rainy green rolling hillsides
Leeches on my boots


I plucked a couple of the crawlies and kept moving upwards. It was only mid-morning but the mist around us veiled the sun and made it seem like late afternoon. The sweet fresh fragrances around lifted my mood. I turned around to catch a glimpse of our rickety ride - a Jeep-lookalike we hitchhiked up from a village at the base. It stood panting in the distance, after a reasonably rough drive. It had shabby sheets instead of doors to shield the passengers from heavy showers. The tyres were mud bathed and one of the wipers on the windscreen had given up.

They call Coorg the “coffee cup of India”. But a closer look at the north and northwestern sides tell a different story. I was pleasantly surprised to discover a host of trekking and hiking routes through untouched forests. Not too steep, neither too popular - the trails along Coorg’s Western Ghats are perfect for anyone who wants to explore abundant hilly forests at their raw best. With at least 5 prominent wildlife sanctuaries, a diverse and healthy bird population and innumerable hidden streams and waterfalls tucked away - this is a nature lover’s paradise…

We were about 40 feet from the starting point and at a good spot uphill to savour the panoramic scene. Stripped of human presence, this remote hill formed a stubby nose on the northernmost range of the Sahyādri in the state. Rolling greens to my right and left, like waves rising and falling with the clouds. Just before me were grassy patches studded with wild flowers. For acres around. Perhaps this is why they call it Pushpagiri, the mountain of flowers.

From the corner of my eye I could spot something moving in the tall grass. Oh this weather! The impenetrable fog made it impossible to spot wildlife! On our way up we caught glimpses of a family of Malabar Parakeet, giant squirrels and identified loud cackles of the Malabar Grey Hornbill. They say the grey bird is a sign of good luck and the harbinger of rain. The lack of motorable roads around the area ensures a lack of tourists. And invites only those in love with the wild.

My guide, a local who knew the region well, was already far ahead of me in the climb. Short and sturdy, he reminded me of mountain goats that could ascend effortlessly. The incessant rain over the last week has caused several landslides - be careful, he had warned me. His words rang in my ear as the slush under my feet made me lose my grip. The more I slipped the tighter I held on to my hiking pole. Walking on the grass should be safer, I mumbled to myself and placed my feet between the oddly spaced boulders. Right there! I fell back and held my breath - a baby snake, about 3 inches in all, wriggled past and dived into the undergrowth.

Black and white photo of a misty, rocky hillside.

Photo title: Treks, Trails and Tranquility

|

Photo Credits: Preanka Roy

As I measured each step carefully along the way my mind wandered to the first conquerer of these ancient lands. What challenges must he have faced when he had arrived? Legend has it that a certain prince Chandraverma, had once climbed these hills to perform severe penance. Pleased with his efforts the Devi blessed him with an army, a sword and the power to become the first king of the region. His sons and grandsons went on to populate and reshape the land with their efforts. This came to be known as Kroda Desha or Kroda, taking its name from the Varaha Avatar of Lord Vishnu. The terms Koda and thereafter Kodagu are corruptions of the same.

We were a few feet from the peak and it was almost noon. Heavy rain clouds from the west were racing us to the top. The boulders that lined the edges stood out like the weather worn heads of lost idols. A single stalky tree swayed on the plateau-like feature ahead of us. Just a few steps more and the view from up there would be endlessly rewarding, I thought to myself.

Pushing against the strong winds we struggled to make our way through. And then something magical happened. With every step the weather seemed to change, the smell in the air…the weight of the winds…even the softness of the grass around… it was inexplicable! As if we had walked through an invisible gateway.

The rain came down suddenly, in all its mystical glory, as if to cleanse us, and make us ready for some divine ritual. The silence beyond this point was almost tangible. We sat under the solo tree, watching the peeking hills and the fleeting clouds. As we were about to settle into a reverie I was sure I heard someone chanting; a wispy low voice with breezy notes came in from the lower side beyond the rocks. The faint gushing of some powerful waterfall below was the only other sound that filled the scene. I stood up alarmed but curious - did someone climb up with us? Whoever was chanting, went on unperturbed. I was about to go in search when my guide said something that stopped me in my tracks. For the next hour he narrated several local folk stories that described different kinds of forest spirits that roamed these hills. Benevolent but mischievous. When honoured in the right way they blessed and worked for the benefit of the community.

We stayed up there listening to the whisperings for what seemed like an eternity. The soft notes seemed to heal parts of my mind I didn’t know needed healing. Maybe this is why ascetics come to the mountains to meditate.

Was it really a forest spirit? Or just the wind through the rocks. Your guess is as good as mine.

IMG 5868

Preanka Roy

Preanka Roy is an adventurist by chance and a creative director by choice. With years of experience in Advertising, Marketing and Journalism behind her, Preanka has served at prominent organisations across India. An avid reader, author and published poet she enjoys different approaches to creative writing. Her deep love for the forests of South India has inspired her to take on environmental activism and forward the cause of wildlife conservation through photography.

 DSC6379

On a Voyage of Paradise

2

Strange Encounters: What We See and What We Miss

R6  8323

Water, Stone, and Empire: Reading Vijayanagara in the Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace

BAT EARRED FOX 2

The Unusual Suspects: Creatures You Didn’t Expect in the Kalahari

Safari vehicle with people on a game drive.

The Ultimate Family Safari: Multigenerational Travel in Africa Creates Unforgettable Bonds

APP00932

A Monument of Motion and Stillness

Spotted deer with antlers in a lush green forest.

Locking Horns: An Afternoon with the Other King
 

9

The Arboreal By-lanes of Coorg: A Street Photographer's Foray into Bird Photography
 

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill on a branch.

Stunning Birds to Spot on Safari

GSC 6705

Hampi Wasn’t Built in a Day

R6  6397

Lone Warrior: An Encounter with the Grey-headed Fish Eagle

 

Interior view of a room with arched doorways.

The Story of the Royal Tombs

Pipit bird on elephant dung in a grassy field.

Eight Unexpected Uses For Elephant Dung

Anegundi village homes with traditional handprint decor.

Aubades and Serenades in Anegundi

Asian elephant eating grass in a lush forest.

The Landscape of an Elephant’s Meal

Coorg Pandi Curry with Kadambuttu rice balls.

A Symphony of Flavours

nicolas-ruiz-mXV-FIvYdmM-unsplash

Under the Kalahari Sky: A Journey Through Africa’s Night Sky

Sasivekalu Ganesha monolithic statue in Hampi.

Where the People Were

 MG 0147

Legends of the Langur

Indrella ampulla snail on a branch.

Reptilian Sibilances, Mollusc Stillnesses, Fern Rustlings

Giraffe in a golden savanna at sunset.

Botswana: A Sustainable Safari Destination

Mythical Yali creature stone carving at a Hampi temple.

Guardians of Sacred Transitions

Two Indian Bisons (Gaurs) in a grassy field.

Where Giants Linger in Shadows
 

Malabar parakeet on a branch, side view.

Songs of the Plantation

Five zebras standing in a lush green field at sunset.

Ten Mistakes to Avoid on Safari

Detailed stone carving of dancing figures on temple wall.

The Art of a Cosmopolitan Empire

Woman in yellow holds a coffee Cup and looks outdoors.

Coffee and the art of slow travel

Baines Baobabs in Botswana under a clear blue sky.

Seven Things to do in the Kalahari Desert

R6  6444

Ugra Narasimha - the protector of Hampi

Dhole (Asiatic wild dog) resting in a lush forest.

Dholes: Whistling Hunters of Kabini

Close-up of a Wayanad Dancing Frog in water.

‘Anura’: An Amphibian Aubade

Close-up of a Cape buffalo with an oxpecker.

Safaris in Botswana

R6  6370

Sri Purandara Mantapa: A hall that echoes the raagas of devotion

Elephant bathing in water with a green bank.

Where Tuskers Swim and Coracles Float

Black and white photo of misty mountains.

Treks, Trails and Tranquility

Kabini elephant wading in water by a bamboo forest.

When Bamboo Blooms and the Forest Hungers

Motion blur photo of a Kodava dancer.

Cultural Extravaganza: Kodava Music & Dance Forms

Vibrant sunset over a flat landscape with a dirt track.

The Kalahari Skies: An Everchanging Canvas of Colour

R6  6512

Secrets of the Badavilinga

R6  2949

The Jenu Kuruba Way: Honouring Nature’s Gifts

Namdroling Monastery with lush gardens and blue sky.

Namdroling - The Refuge

The San people in traditional attire in Central Kalahari.

The San People of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve: Guardians of an Ancient Culture

ANEGUNDI FORT 1

Anegundi: ‘Monkey Business’ in the ‘Elephant Pit’

Crested Serpent Eagle perched on a branch.

Birds to See Even If You’re No Birdwatcher

Malabar giant squirrel on a tree branch.

A Visual Spectacle On The Tree Tops

WILD DOG 2

African Wild Dogs - one of Africa's most captivating carnivores and most endangered species

Village street scene in Hampi with blue houses.

The Bylanes of Hampi

Dark blue tiger butterfly with white spots on a flower.

On The Wing: Where Do the Butterflies Go?

Brown hyena cub resting on a mound in a sunlit field.

Discovering the Brown Hyenas of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Three young performers in traditional Hanuman look in hampi

Life in a Forgotten Empire

Elephant mother and calf in Nagarhole National Park

An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Sound of Life

Crested Malabar Lark on a weathered stone post.

On a Lark: Travels in Search of Song

Misty forest with a Kodagu stream flowing through foliage.

Kodagu and Her Raintime Songs

Ramayana 2

Tracing the Ramayana Trail in Hampi

 DSC6385

Five Wildlife Sightings You Can Expect Without Going on Safari

Four elephants walking across a dry, open landscape.

Into the Valley of Deception: The Central Kalahari Game Reserve

3M6A7922

The Cup That Cheers: The Changing Taste of Coffee

Blue-capped Rock Thrush on a branch with green foliage.

Mountain Dweller: The Blue-capped Rock Thrush

Portuguese carracks sailing near a rocky coast.

The Spice Route: How spices changed the world

Black-rumped Flameback woodpecker with vibrant plumage.

Treasures Hidden in Plain Sight

3M6A6462

Amazing Ankasamudra

EveryWherever RajivShyamSundar Hampi-12

Where Stones Sing: The Hemakuta Hill in Hampe

 DSC3817

Craft Calling: Traditional Lambani Arts and Crafts and the Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra

R6  7662

The Path of a Downfall

1Kabini VinothChandar

The Kabini & Kaveri Chronicles

cicada-night-santosh-saligram

An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Language of Deception

male tiger kabini © santosh saligram

An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Sound of Tardiness

Elephant Families 2

Caretaking in Elephant Families

Lioness with her cubs in a dry, sandy landscape.

The Desert Lions of the Kalahari

Young leopard with striking eyes resting in a tree.

Taking Terrific Photos on Safari: Getting the Trophy Shot

4

Adapt and Survive: Reaching the Pinnacle of Specialisation

Gham Dao - Jan 22 -168

In Pursuit of the Pride

Vernal hanging parrot hanging upside down from a branch.

THE UPSIDE-DOWN WORLD OF THE HANGING PARROT

Watercolor painting of Virajpet Clock Tower square

The Virajpet Clock Tower

6C3A9186 kkdpnq

The Kalahari Basin

An African man examining an arrow.

A time with the first people: The Old Ways

Night safari vehicle with spotlight on a starry sky.

Into the night – nocturnal life in the Kalahari

common hawk cuckoo santosh saligram

An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: The Seen and the Sawing

fi

Hampi Ruins in the 1900s: Stellar Photographs From A Forgotten Historical Text

fi

Touring Kabini with Your Eyes Closed: An Aural Journey through Nagarahole: Alarms True and False

IMG 3527 2

North Karnataka’s Threesome — Badami, Aihole, & Pattadakallu

Coorg traditional wedding jewelry, emphasizing craftsmanship.

A Coorg Bride’s Trousseau

Small olive-green greenish warbler on a leafy branch.

The World of Warblers

Evolve Back Coorg Hotel staff in traditional attire with hands folded

What’s Cooking: A Day with the Chef

Colorful Barbet bird in its natural habitat.

Barbet Battleground

PHOTO-2022-08-26-14-05-25

Hampi Ruins in the 1900s — The Gateways into the City

IMG 3068

Badami Caves — A Feast for Your Eyes

15a

The Diamonds of the Vijayanagara Empire

fi

Architectural Wonders

Lioness approaches a porcupine with raised quills.

A Lone Porcupine fights off an entire pride of Lions!

Temple as viewed from the river 2

Yantroddharaka Hanuman Temple – A Deep Dive

SO1

The cute little denizens of the Kamalapura Palace, Hampi

fi

The Tale of the Tungabhadra

IMG 1384

Geological Note on Hampi’s rocks

Elephant Stables in Hampi

On the trail of the elephant in Hampi

603577 10151112098784049 2080128102 n

Hampi – The Other Side of the Coin

Img0689-Local-BreadsJallad-RotiAkki-RotiRagi-Roti-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Jallad Roti | Akki Roti

Img0759-Qubani-ka-Meetha-and-Shahajahani-ka-Meetha-1

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Qubani ka Meetha and Shahjahani ka Meetha

unnamed-1

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Murgh-e-Lazeez

Img0833 - Nizami Machali ka Salan

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Nizami Machali ka Salan

Img0782-Dum-ki-Nalli-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Dum ki Nalli

Img0512-Anapa-Ginjala-Pulusu-1

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Anapa Ginjala Pulusu

3

Sabu – the First Indian Star in Hollywood

FI

An Aural Journey through Kabini: Pre-Dawn Critters and Jitters

Bull Frog 2

A Naturalist’s Office

Img0731-Raan-e-Kamalapura-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Raan-e-Kamalapura

Img0813-Bhaghara-Baingan-768x512

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Baghara Baingan

Img0564-Natukodi-Pulusu-768x512

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Natukodi Pulusu

Img0526-Tondekai-Palya-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tondekai Palya

Img0573-Royala-Igaru-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Royala Igaru

Img0637-Pulihora-1-1200x800 1

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pulihora

Img0704-Koli-Chuttada-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Koli Chuttada

Img0607-Karibale-Cutlets-1200x800

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Karibelle Cutlet

 MG 8292 final u0ogqz

The Battle of Talikota and the Sacking of Hampi

kori chicken

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kori Ghee Roast

Experiences-Banner gacnt8

The Kalahari is in a constant state of flow

Three meerkats in a grassy landscape, one standing.

Seven Animals to see in the Kalahari Desert

Gham Dao - Jan 22 -6

Of creatures great and small

Silhouetted trees against a vibrant sunset sky.

Ten Interesting Facts About the Kalahari Desert

Img1642

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vazhachundum Thoran

Img1550

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Mezze Platter

Img1613

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Grilled Pork Ribs

fi

Of Tufts and Tails

fi

An Aural Journey through Kabini: The Beginnings

Varhara - Royal Emblem of Vijayanagaraa

Harihara & Bukka: founders of the Vijayanagara Empire

Img1722

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pazham Puzhungiyathu

Img1601

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Peppercorn chocolate mousse

Img1583

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kabsah Laham Bis

Img1669

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vazhakanda Thoran

Img1767

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Banana Bajji

Img1732

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pazham pori

Img1692

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Joojeh – e – Koobideh
 

Img1474

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vegetable Kurma

String hoppers (Idiyappam) on a banana leaf.

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Idiyappam

Img1780

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Appam

Img1521

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kadamputtu

Coorg Pandi Curry with Kadambattu (rice balls).

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Pandi Curry

Kerala Fish Curry in a traditional wooden bowl.

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kerala Fish Curry

Ancient Nalknad Palace with a dome, surrounded by nature.

Nalknad Palace – off the beaten track in Coorg

save-cauvery

Mother Goddess Kaveri

Red-whiskered Bulbul with a distinctive crest.

(Not) The Garden Variety Bulbul

Pandi Curry (Coorg pork curry) with rice rotis.

Pandi Curry – the Emperor of Kodava Cuisine

Malabar Gliding Frog on a green stem, dark background.

Under the veil of rain and darkness

Indian bride adjusting her veil, hands with mehndi.

Kodava Brides – keepers of tradition

Interior of coffee museum with exhibits and a coffee machine.

Designing the Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum

Close-up of green and red bird's eye chilies.

Special Ingredients of Kodava Cuisine

Dark purple Maddh Thopp liquid in a glass bowl.

The Purple Elixir – Maddh Thopp

3M6A9407

Why you should put a backwater boat safari at the forefront of your Kabini visit – 2

fi

The Master of the Seas

SAN 6516

Why you should put a backwater boat safari at the forefront of your Kabini visit – 1

Sepia photo and drawing of Rani Soubédre of Coorg.

Chikka Veerarajendra of Coorg and his Thirteen Wives

Lush green Kodagu rice field with distant mountains.

Kodava Cuisine – Festive Food of Coorg

Hands crafting intricate geometric pattern on kadaga.

Kodava Jewellery – Design Deconstructed

Bitter oranges and blossoms on a tree branch.

Kodava Cuisine – Seasonal Food of Coorg

Nadkerianda Ainmane in Karada, Coorg

The Architecture of Ainmanes: Form follows Function

Kaimada shrine with red steps and tiled roof in Kodagu.

Kodava Ainmanes – the heart of the Kodava Clan

King Lingarajendra hunting on horseback with a tiger.

Shikar with Raja Lingarajendra

Watercolor of Raja of Coorg's guest house and fort.

A Guest House for the British

Lush green, mist-covered Coorg hills in a serene landscape.

A Photographer’s Guide to Coorg – 2

Omkareshwara Temple in Coorg with a pond.

A Photographer’s Guide to Coorg

Malabar Gliding Frog evolveback 1

The Enchanted Woods!

Princess Victoria Gouramma in traditional attire.

Princess Victoria Gowramma of Coorg – 2

The Ex-Rajah of Coorg and Princess Gouramma, 1852.

Princess Victoria Gowramma of Coorg

Mallalli Falls, Coorg, amidst misty mountains.

Of Clouds and Waterfalls

Orange-County-Article-The-Mesmerizing-Monsoons-in-the-Magical-Coorg-by-Prathap-Photography-002

The Mesmerizing Monsoon of Coorg

Img1941

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Sutta Sigadi Mathu Hannugalu

Img1903

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Masala Raagi Cheela

Img1971

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tandoori Zaffrani Paneer & Tandoori Phool

Img2094

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Tumbida Ginnu

Img2192 B

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Raagi Mudde Bassaru

Img2024

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Hurida Meke Mamsa

Img2082

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Masala Hoo Kosu

3M6A0969a

Hidden in Plain Sight

GSC 5685

On Invisible Trails

Img1884

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kuruba Adina Saru

Img1911

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Sutta Naati Koli

Img2144

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Savatekayi Suttadu

Img2042

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Kendadali urida sigadi mathu meenu

Img1838

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Bidirinalli Beyisida Koli

Img2112

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Vaje Bale

1

A Date with the Wild

Img1979

From the Kitchens of Evolve Back – Hurida Koli

blackpanther1

First glimpse of god – the Black Panther of Kabini

FY423RgakAAEsUr

The Battle of Raichur: The Beginning of the End

727x527

‘Monument Mithras’ (Friends of Monuments)

DSC 0106

Vijayanagara Empire – the origins

167 2

Kinnal Craft: Artistic Heritage in Wood

3M6A6267a

Beyond the Open-Air Museum

bird only

Farmers of the Forest

1

Life of a Tiger Mother

Image 6

Bagheera – Down to his Knees!!!

image 2 1

The Magic Continues

 15A8800

Kabini – a heartfelt tribute

Image 2

Bagheera’s first appearance !

IMG 0502

The Legend of Karapura

3M6A9407

The Elephant Mating Game

IMG 8798

The Story of Bhimanakolli

 MG 1573

Kabini – a brief introduction

IMG 8725a

The Lost Temples of Kabini

Highway 1

A Face-off on the Highways of Kabini

IMG 8571

Flame of the Forest

Kabini image3a

A Foggy Morning in Kabini

DSC 1003 1

The Indian Grey Mongoose

Navabrindavana-7

Nava Brindavana – an Ode to Madhva Philosophy

royal stepped tank

A Tale of Two Travellers – 2

DSC 0123

Crafting Livelihoods

Krishnadeva Raya and his two wives

A Day in The Life of Krishnadeva Raya

bank of the river tungabhadra and virupaksha temple

A Tale of Two Travellers

 DSC1936 2

The Unseen Predator – the Indian Grey Wolf

Leopard Chital Kill-1150

Leopard – The Ambush Hunter!

santosh-saligram 2

The Kabini Migration

leopard 2a

Where The Ghost of the Jungle Comes Alive

Jackals Nagarahole-6199a

The Return of the Jackal

Black Panther Injured-8281

Phantom of the Forest!

3M6A7548

Anegundi – a Photo Walk

Carvings of dancing girls on the walls of the Mahanavami Dibba

Of A Grandeur Long Forgotten

FI

The Women of Ancient Hampi

IMG 4438

A Glimpse of Village Life

FI

Hampi: Undiscovered and Reimagined

Krishna Temple Complex, Hemakuta Hill.

The First Photographic Record of Hampi

Hampi-Neeta-PhotoStory-07

The Ruins of the Achutaraya Temple

Hampi abstract 1

Vignettes of the Past

Hampi wildlife 1

The Wild Denizens of Hampi

IMG 5735

The Dancing Girls of Hampi

 DSC6747

Vijayanagara Courtly Style

IMG 5747 1 featured imaged

Horsepower in Hampi

Hampi-Neeta-Blog1-02

The Myriad Feelings of Hampi!

Spotted deer with antlers in a lush green forest.

Locking Horns: An Afternoon with the Other King
 

Continue your booking